GEMS FROM W

WEDGWOOD Wedgwood is an old pottery company that also makes some porcelain jewelry. The company was founded in Burslem, England in 1752 by Josiah Wedgwood (1730 - 1795), who was Charles Darwin's grandfather. Their signature Jasper ware (white on blue porcelain formed into a cameo) is made into pins, pendants, and necklace.WEISSThe Weiss company made high-quality costume jewelry from 1942 until the 1970's. The company was founded in New York City by Albert Weiss, a former employee of the Coro company (the largest costume jewelry manufacturer). Weiss' jewelry was often studded with Austrian rhinestones. The Weiss Maltese cross brooch (above left)...

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GEMS FROM V

VAN DELL Van Dell, Precious All, and Younger Lady are marks of the Van Dell Corporation of Providence, Rhode Island, USA. This costume jewelry company produces sterling silver and vermeil (gold-plated silver) pieces, with rhinestones and pearls incorporated into classic designs.VARISCITEVariscite, AlPO4-2H2O, Hydrated Aluminum Phosphate, (also called Utahlite) is a relatively rare translucent pastel green to emerald green gemstone with blue or yellow overtones (it is similar to chrysocolla, chrysoprase and turquoise). Variscite is found in the USA (in Utah and Nevada), Germany, Brazil, and Australia (in Queensland). Variscite has a hardness of...

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GEMS FROM T

TAHITIAN PEARLTahitian pearls (also called black pearls) are dark-colored pearls. They are produced by the large, black-lipped pearl oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk found in the tropical Indo-Pacific Ocean. Black pearls come in many colors, including many body shades and overtone tints including gray (light gray to almost black), peacock green (especially valuable), aubergine (eggplant), and deep brown. The color of the dark nacre is determined by the minerals in the oyster's diet (plankton) and in its environment. Many "black pearls" are dyed or irridiated to enhance or change their color;...

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GEMS FROM S

SAPPHIRE Sapphire is a precious gemstone (a type of corundum) that ranges in color from blue to pink to yellow to green to white to purple (mauve sapphire) to pink-orange (padparadscha sapphire). Six-sided asterisms sometimes occur in star sapphires (caused by inclusions of tiny, thin, parallel needles of rutile). Sapphires are related to rubies. Sapphires were once thought to protect the wearer from poisonous creatures. Sapphire has a hardness of 9 and a specific gravity of 3.9 - 4.1. Sapphires are often heat treated to improve their color.SNOWFLAKE OBSIDIANSnowflake Obsidian (also called flowering obsidian) is a volcanic glass that is usually...

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GEMS FROM R

RHINESTONES Rhinestones are highly reflective glass made to imitate gemstones. The original rhinestones were quartz stones (rock crystal) obtained from the Rhine river. These stones were cut to resemble gemstones. The best rhinestones today are made of highly reflective leaded glass which is faceted and polished. The Trifari pin above has baguette cut and round cut rhinestones.RUBYRubies are precious stones and a member of the corundum family (Al2O3). Rubies range in color from the classic deep red to pink to purple to brown. Rubies are extremely hard; only diamonds are harder. During the renaissance, people thought that rubies could counteract...

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GEMS FROM P

PELL Pell is a costumy jewelry company that was founded in 1941 by the brothers Bill, Joe, Toy, and Alfred Gaita. Pell makes high-quality pieces; older jewelry was pedominantly figural and made of clear rhinestones; later pieces are primarily gold-plated with faux pearls. The pin above is a older Pell butterfly with clear, round rhinestones and tiny, red glass eyes.PEARLPearls are organic gems grown within oysters and a few other mollusks. Pearls are formed when a foreign object (like a tiny stone) has made its way into the mollusk's shell. The mollusk secretes nacre, a lustrous substance that coats the intruding object. As thousands of layers...

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GEMS FROM O

OBSIDIAN Obsidian (also called Apache tears) is a volcanic glass that is usually black, but is occasionally red, brown, gray, green (rare), dark with "snowflakes," or even clear. This glassy, lustrous mineral is found in lava flows, and obsidian stones can be massive. Obsidian is formed when viscous lava (from volcanos) cools rapidly. Most obsidian is 70 percent silica. Obsidian has a hardness of 5 and a specific gravity of 2.35. The pin above is Mahogany (brown) obsidian.OPALOpals are semi-precious stones that are luminous and iridescent, frequently with inclusions of many colors ("fire"). Opal is a mineral composed of noncrystalline (amorphous)...

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GEMS FROM N

NAPIER Napier was a costume jewelry company that made a wide range of pieces. The company began operations in 1875 in Attleboro, Massaachusetts, making silver products; it was then called "Whitney and Rice." When the company was sold in 1882, it was renamed "Carpenter and Bliss," and soon after, "E. A. Bliss and Co., Inc." In 1890, the company moved operations to Meriden, Connecticut. During the 1910's (after Word War 1), the company began making costume jewelry. In 1920, when James H. Napier was president of the company, the company name was changed to "Napier-Bliss." (Napier headed the company until 1960.) In 1922, the name was again changed,...

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GEMS FROM M

MAHOGANY OBSIDIAN Mahogany Obsidian (also called Apache tears) is brownish obsidian. This glassy, lustrous mineral is found in lava flows, and obsidian stones can be massive. Obsidian is formed when viscous lava (from volcanos) cools rapidly. Most obsidian is 70 percent silica. Obsidian has a hardness of 5 and a specific gravity of 2.35. The pin above is Mahogany (brown) obsidian.MALACHITEMalachite is an opaque semi-precious stone with layers of deep green and light green. It is usually found in copper mines; malachite is about 57% copper. Malachite was used as jewelry thousands of years ago by the ancients Egyptians. Malachite is usually cabochon...

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GEMS FROM L

LAMPWORKED GLASS Lampworked glass (also called torchwork) is formed from glass canes and tubes that are shaped by hand over a flame (oil lamps and bellows were originally used, hence the name lampworking). Lampworked glass beads are made in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and designs, including millefiori, rose-like overlay beads (pictured above), aventurine glass, and many others. Lampworking was invented in the 1700's in Murano, Italy.LAPIS LAZULILapis lazuli is a rich blue opaque, semi-precious stone that has been used in jewelry since ancien times. Ground-up lapis lazuli was once used as a pigment for oil paintings. Lapis lazuli is often...

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GEMS FROM J

J.J. J.J. is a registered trademark of the Jonette Jewelry Compant, East Providence, R.I. This costume jewelry company was orignially called the Providence Jewelry Co.; it was founded in 1935 by Abraham Lisker. When Abraham Lisker's brother Nathan joined the company, the name was changed to Lisker & Lisker Inc. Production was halted during World War 2. After the war, the company was called the Jonette Jewelry Company. Marked with the initials "J.J." their jewelry is mostly figural and novelty pins, including Christmas pins. The poodle above is a J.J. figural pin.JADEJade is a semi-precious stone that ranges in color from green to white to...

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GEMS FROM I

INLAY An inlay is a piece of material (often stone or glass) that is partially embedded in another material (usually metal) such that the two materials make a level surface. IRIDESCENTAn iridescent object displays many lustrous, changing colors. Iridescence is caused by the reflection of light from the jew...

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GEMS FROM H

HAGLER, STANLEY Stanley Hagler was a jewelry designer whose pieces were opulent, complex, hand-wired, and usually colorful. Hagler produced pieces from 1953 until 1996. He produced pieces for Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue. After Stanley Hagler's death in 1996, jewelry continued to be produced under the name Stanley Hagler & Company. Hagler's ex-employee, Ian St Gielar, produces pieces using the Stanley Hagler name.HOBE Hobe Cie is a costume jewelry company that was founded by William Hobé in New York in the 1930's. William Hobe had immigrated to the US from France, where his family had made fine jewelry for generations....

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GEMS FROM G

GAGATE Gagate (popularly known as jet) is fossilized coal. It is a hard, lustrous black stone that was used in mourning jewelry during the Victorian era (especially after Queen Victoria's husband died and she went into a long-lasting mourning, affecting fashion). Jet is frequently cabochon cut. Gagate has been mined near Whitby (on the Yorkshire coast of England) since prehistoric times. It is also found in Spain. France, Germany, and Russia, but these other sources are said to be inferior to the harder, more elastic Whitby jet. Jet/gagate has a hardness of 2.5-4 (quite soft) and a specific gravity of 1.30-1.35 (it is relatively lightweight)....

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GEMS FROM F

FLEUR DE LIS The fleur de lis (meaning "flower of the lily" in French) is a heraldic symbol of French royalty; it is still used in many French flags. Fleurs de lis are a motif often used in jewelry. The green enamel fleur de lis pin above is by Trifari.FLORENZAFlorenza was a costume jewelry design company started by Daniel Kasoff Inc. in 1948 in New York City. The name Florenza was first used in 1950 (it was named for Kasoff's wife, Florence). Florenza produced pieces until 1981 (when Dan's son Larry, who was then in charge of the company, was injured in a car accident). Florenza made well-designed, intricate (mostly) gold-finished pieces that...

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GEMS FROM E

EISENBERG The Eisenberg company creates beautiful, high-quality costume jewelry. It was founded by Jonas Eisenberg in Chicago, Illinois in 1942, and is still in business. Originally, they made dresses with ornate buttons (made by the Ora company), and expanded into the costume jewelry business. The brooch above is a classic sterling piece from the 1940's. Eisenberg marks include (script) E, Eisenberg Original, and Eisenberg Ice (current).EMMONSEmmons Jewelers, Inc., of Newark, NY, is a costume jewelry company that was founded by Charles H. Stuart. Emmons produced high-quality pieces under the marks Emmons, and Emmolite (and later, the Sarah Coventry...

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GEMS FROM D

DELFT JEWELRY Jewelry made from Delft faience (tin-glazed earthenware) is usually set in silver, often with delicate filigree work and granulation. The classic hand-painted blue-on-white pottery often depicts windmills, flowers, and Dutch landscapes. Delftware jewelry includes necklaces, pendants, earrings, pins, bracelets, rings, charms, and cufflinks. Delft pottery has been in production in Holland since the middle 1600s, but Delft jewelry dates from much later. Delft blue is the most recognized Delft style, but other colors and styles have been used in Delft pottery and jewelry.DEMI-PARUREA demiparure is a matching set of jewelry, usually...

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GEMS FROM C

CINER Ciner is a jewelry complany that was founded in 1895 by Emanuel Ciner, originally producing fine jewelry. Since 1931, Ciner began producing high-end costume jewelry with very good quality stones (including Swarovski rhinestones) and 18-carat gold plated finishes. Their "pearls" are specially made by coating glass beads with pearl luster many times. Many Ciner pieces have a multitude of tiny, good-quality stones. The starfish pin above has jade-colored stones and pavé rhinestones.CINNABARCinnabar is the mineral Mercury Sulfide. Its color ranges from cinnamon to scarlet to brick red and it can be translucent to transparent. It is often carved....

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GEMS FROM B

BAKELITEBakelite (also called catalin) is a dense, synthetic resin that was used to make jewelry, game pieces, and many other things. Bakelite was patented by L.H. Baekeland in 1907. Bakelite plastic is made from carbolic acid and formaldehyde. Bakelite pieces are molded, extruded, or carved. When one Bakelite color is inlaid into another, interesting designs like polka dots can be made. Bakelite was first used to imitate amber. The bangle above is "butterscotch" bakelite.BUTTERFLY WING JEWELRY Butterfly wing jewelry is made from real butterfly wings. A picture is usually painted on the wings, which is then enclosed in glass or plastic and then...

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GEMS FROM A

AZURITEAzurite is a beautiful copper-based blue mineral that is often used in jewelry. The color ranges from very deep blue to pale blue. Azurite has also been used as a dye for paints and luxury fabrics. Azurite is hydrated copper carbonate; its chemical formula is Cu3(CO3)2(OH)2. Malachite (another copper-based mineral) and azurite are often found together. Azurite has a hardness of 3.5 to 4 (relatively soft) and a specific gravity of 3.7 to 3.9. Azurite is found in massive monoclinic crystals in Australia the southwestern USA, France, Mexico, Morocco, Nambia, Zaire, and Europe. Azurite is sometimes coated with a colorless wax or impregnated...

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Zircon - the birthstone for December

Zircon - the birthstone for DecemberZircon is considered to be a very brilliant stone because of its high refractive index. It is also very hard and well suited for a wide range of jewellery uses. An important identification mark for all Zircons, (except the green) is a strong double refraction easily seen under the loupe at the facet edges. Blue and Green are the most desirable Zircons. Zircon is said to aid sleep, bring prosperity, and promote honor and wisdom for its owner. It can be used as an amulet for travelers. It brings the wearer financial success and protection from being struck by lightning. In the symbolic Kalpa Tree of the Hindu...

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Topaz - the birthstone for November

Topaz - the birthstone for NovemberTopaz is a stone that can be readily available in a variety of colors, with the popular ones being white and blue. Being very hard, it is well suited for all jewellery applications. It controls anger, balances diseases of emotional origin, calms stress, restores physical energies and also enhances creative power. It will bring light and warmth into your life and protect against external stress. Topaz is available in Africa, Asia, Mexico, Russia, South America and USA. Topaz is the birthstone for the zodiac sign of Scorp...

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Opal - the birthstone for October

Opal - the birthstone for OctoberThe Opal, Eve of the Gods, is a stone of hopes, love and romance and a stone to grant wishes and personal happiness positive actions and achievements. It is a mysterious gem, as each one appears different in its delicate beauty. It has always been one of the most popular and esteemed gems, known to absorb, carry and pass enormous amounts of energy. The Opal is not a particularly hard stone, so care must be taken to preserve the natural beauty of this gem. Beautiful Opals have featured in many of the Crown Jewels of Europe and they remain popular with heads of state and the rich and famous. Opal is found in Western...

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Sapphire (Nilam) - the birthstone for September

Sapphire (Nilam) - the birthstone for SeptemberSapphire is the Gem of Destiny. It is extremely hard, durable and is considered very valuable. It will bring out the best within you and help make your dreams come true. It has always been associated with luck in romance and is said to bring peace and happiness. It relieves mental depression and stimulates motivation and goal orientation. This stone will help you with the heart and stomach, stimulating the pituitary glands, strengthening the eyes, reducing fever, and nose bleeds. Sapphires are found in Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia, Burma, Vietnam, Madagascar and Africa. Sapphire is the birthstone...

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Peridot - the birthstone for August

Peridot - the birthstone for AugustPeridot is a green gemstone that is as popular today as it was in the past. It is considered to have the power to drive away evil spirits and that power was even more intense when the stone is set in gold. They are receptive and promote protection, health, wealth and sleep. Peridot is worn or carried for general healing purposes. Its deep green hue suggests its use in wealth - attracting spells. Peridot is found in Burma, Pakistan, China and USA. Peridot is the birthstone for the zodiac sign of L...

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Ruby (Manikya) - the birthstone for July

Ruby (Manikya) - the birthstone for JulyA Ruby, considered to be one of the most precious and perfect gemstones, is actually a Sapphire with trace amounts of chromium giving the Ruby its bright red color. It symbolizes the sun, freedom and power. It is well suited for all jewellery applications as it is an extremely hard and durable gemstone. Top quality Rubies are highly prized, and in larger sizes are frequently valued above all other gemstones, including Diamonds. It increases energy levels and will stimulate love if worn close to the heart. It protects sensitive natures, health and wealth, controls passion, stimulates blood circulation, gives...

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Diamond (Hira) - the birthstone for April

Diamond (Hira) - the birthstone for AprilDiamond, often called the King of Gems, is a woman's most favourite accessory and a man's emblem of power. It signifies purity and innocence and has always been associated with strength and good luck. It gives calm sleep and takes away nightmares. It can help you achieve material wealth and prestige. It is considered to be the most powerful when combined with other gemstones. The first wearers of diamonds were the Princes of India seeking magical protection and to display their power and wealth. Early Egyptians believed that the vana amoris, a.k.a. the vein of love, ran directly from the heart to the third...

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Aquamarine - the birthstone for March

Aquamarine - the birthstone for MarchAquamarine is a member of the Beryl family of stones. Meaning -"sea water," it's not hard to figure out that it derives this name due to its color being similar to that of the ocean. The color ranges from very light to medium light blue, frequently with a light touch of green. The most desired color is the deeper shade of blue. Aquamarine is very durable and well suited for jewellery. It is often considered to have a soothing influence on married couples and its power to help husbands and wives work out their differences, makes it a good anniversary gift. A dream of aquamarine means that you will meet new...

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Amethyst - the birthstone for February

Amethyst - the birthstone for FebruaryAmethyst is a form of quartz. It is one of the best stones to use for meditation. It guides the awareness away from self-centered thought patterns as it lures the mind towards a deeper understanding. Because of its calming mental effect, amethyst is a stone that can be used for over-worked, over-stressed, or over-whelmed mental states offering protection to those who wear it. It is one of the best stones to use for tension or migraine headaches. It is good for people who tend to be easily angered or suffer from recurrent nightmares and brings a peaceful balance of mental and emotional energies. A good stone...

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